Brassiere



J y 1934- D. COCHRANE-WILKINSON 1,965,997

BRAssIERE Filed Aug. 7, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet l Jul y 10, 1934. D. COCHRANE-WILKINSON 1,965,997

BRAssIERE Filed 1951 2 Sheets-sheaf =2 Patented July 10, 1934 PATENT OFFIC BRASSIERE Doris Cochran's-Wilkinson, New York, N. Y., as-

signor to Kestos Limited, London, England, an English joint-stock company Application August 7, 1931, Serial No. 555,843

7 Claims.

This invention relates to articles of apparel, and more particularly to feminine garments, such as brassires or the like, which, in order to properly support and protect the body, must be fabricated with a certain curvature and fullness adapted to the bodily contour to which they are applied.

The general object of the invention is the provision of novel and improved articles of this type and methods of manufacturing the same in an eflicient and economical manner.

A more particular object of the invention is to provide in a garment of this description, novel means to properly support and uplift the breasts of the wearer without contracting, flattening, or

forcing the flesh into an unnatural position.

Furthermore, in its preferred embodiments, the invention contemplates the provision of brassires or similar garments which may be produced in one or a limited number of sizes, and which are adjustable to fit the wearer, both with respect to the means by which they are positioned and secured on the body, and also with reference to the main portion of the garment itself.

Other objects and features of novelty will be apparent from the following specification when read in connection with the accompanying claims, in which certain embodiments of the invention are illustrated by way of example.

Referring to the drawings:

In Figure 1, one embodiment of my improved brassiere is shown in position as 'worn;

Figure 2 is a rear elevation of the same em-' bodiment showing certain means for adjusting the securing straps;

Figure 3 is a plan view of an original blank I from which one side member of the brassiere is made, a completely cutout blank being indicated in broken lines as being superposed upon the original blank;

Figures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 illustrate intermediate stages in the blank folding and cutting process; Figure 9 is a plan view of the completed blank; Figure 10 is a front elevation of a modified form of brassire embodying the principles of my invention;

Figures 11 and 12 are fragmentary front and 50 rear views respectively of one breast portion of this form of brassire;

Figure 13 is a detail view on an enlarged scale and partly in section, illustrating the adjustable means for the body portion of the brassire Figure 14 is a plan view of a blank used in providing the insertion employed in the embodiment shown in Figures 10, 11 and 12; and

Figure 15 is an enlarged detail view of the strap attaching the adjusting means.

Referring now more particularly to the embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings, my improved brassiere is designated generally by the numeral 10, and comprises the two breast portions or supports 11 which are substantially oval in contour and of a fullness to accommodate the breasts without binding. The portions 11 are identical except that they are adapted to extend in opposite directions andare joined at their inner margins by means of the seam 12. The whole body portion of the 7 brassiere is provided with a facing or binding 13 along its entire contour. At the extreme outer points 14 of the breast portions, the opening 15 is provided, through which the back strap 16 is adapted to extend. The strap 16 is preferably 76 formed of elastic material, and the ends 17 thereof, which form the attaching loops, are provided with the hooks 18, each of which are adapted to be selectively engaged with one of the eye members 19 secured to the intermediate 80 portion of the strap 16. This of course provides a convenient means for adjusting the brassiere in accordance with the bust measure of the wearer.

To the uppermost portions of each of the breast supports 11 are secured the shoulder straps 20, the lower rear portions 21 of which are preferably formed of elastic material and are provided with 16, by means of the selective engagement of the hook 25 with the eyes 26. The application of my improved brassiere to the body of a wearer is clearly illustrated in Figure 1.

The preferred method of forming the breast supports 11 which is provided by the present invention, will now be described with particular reference to Figures 3-9 inclusive of the drawings.

An original blank is shown at 30 in Figure 3 and is preferably in the form of a rectangle ABCD, the length of the sides of which are in the approximate ratio of 3 to 5. The completely cut out blank is shown in-plan at 31 in Figure 9, and is also indicated in dot and dash lines as superposed upon the original blank 30 in Figure 3. The line E-F is first drawn on the blank 30 so as to divide it into two portions, the right hand one being a square, measuring three units on each side, andthe left hand area being a rectangle of the dimensions three units by two units. The left hand rectangle ACEF is next bisected by the line GI-I, and the area CFGI-I is cut away as shown in Figure 5. The square portion BDEF is then folded along the diagonal line B-F so that the corner D coincides with the,.point E. The point on the edge of the upper fold which coincides with the point H is designated H. Then a point J is marked on the diagonal at approximately one inch from the point B, and a perpendicular is erected which intersects the side AB of the blank at K and the side BD at K. The corner of the blank is cut ofi along the line J-K, K. The line G-H is then extended to the point L on'the line FJ and the blank is folded along the line HL so that the point F coincides with the points D and E. The cloth is then cut along the line M H, the point M being substantially the mid-point of the margin AG. A perpendicular is then erected at the mid-point N of the line E-L as shown in Figure 6 and is extended to the point 0 so as to makethe line N0 about an inch in length. The points 0 and L are then connected by a line which, when extended, intersects the margin of the blank at P. The point Q is then selected on the line O-P at a distance from O which is determined by the size of the garment desired, as for example for a length of 1 inches. and Q, the folded triangular portion FI-IL may be cut away along the line I-I--L. The upper fold of the cloth may then be cut along the straight line KQ and then along a substantially para-.

bolic curve QH'. Next a point B. is selected on the margin M--H at a distance from the point M determined by the size of the garment desired, and the points R and Q, on the rear fold of the blank are connected by the gradual curve R.Q. The lower fold of the blank is then out along the line RQ, and the blank is then unfolded and assumes the form shown in Figure 9, which is bounded by the already designated points R,

In order to form the body portion of the brassiere, two of the blanks 31 are sewed together along their corresponding lines KK', the margins H-L and H'L are made to coincide and are secured together by means of the seam 33, and the whole structure is provided with the facing or binding 13 as heretofore explained; the

point R, of course, corresponding with the ex-- treme ends 14 of the completed garment. It will be readily understood that the proper fullness of the breast supports 11 is provided by the cutting away of the segmental portions HLH' and the uniting of the margins formed thereby as at seams 33. It will be seen from an inspection of the drawings, especially Figure 1, that the seams 33 extend from points adjacent the extreme ends 14 of the garment approximately horizontally inwardly to the nipple points of the brassire. This provides a slight reinforcement for these outer portions of the garment which is relatively inextensible as compared with the uninterrupted described as being substantially L-shaped; the

After establishing these points N, 0

In Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13, there is illustrated.

a modified form of brassiere designated generally by the numeral 110. The breast supports 111, in this embodiment, are formed from blanks which are fabricated in exactly the same way as the blank 31 employed in the previously described embodiment and are joined in a similar manner as indicated at 112. This form of brassire is also adapted to be furnished with shoulder straps 20 and a back strap 16, which are attached there to in the same manner as in the case of the previously described embodiment. However, in this case, the margins H-L and H L are not sewed together, but the segmental portion HLH' is supplanted by a triangular insertion 35, the size or angular extent of which may be varied according to the dimensions of the finished garment desired. As shown in Figure 14, the insertion 35 comprises a triangle STUhavingarcuate sides.

In addition to the variable adjustment provided in connection with the back strap 16 and the shoulder straps 20, a further adjustment in the size and fullness of the individual breast supports is provided in the modification illustrated in Figures 11, 12 and 13 of the drawings. In this embodiment, the same blank 31 may be used for the main portion of the breast supports, and they are connected and finished in the same manner as the embodiment previously described. In this modification, however, the insertion 35 is provided with a series of tucks 40 which taper in width from the outer edge 41 of the breast supports to the center 42. These tucks are formed closely adjacent each other and are separately sewed as indicated by the seams 43. Preferably, the insertion 35 is longer from its apex to'its arcuate outer side than the edges H-L and H"L, so as' to provide an excess of material for any cutting or trimming of the edge which may be necessary in conforming it to shape before applying the facing or binding. By means of this construction, as will be readily understood, one or more of the tucks 40 may be let out in order to accom-- modate the brassire to the individual measurements of the wearer. In this way the garments may be marketed in one size or a limited number of general sizes, and may be adjusted by the purchaser to fit.

The feature of the present invention referred to in connection with the embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings, whereby the set of the garment is effected by the'relative lateral inextensibility of the outer halves of the breast portions, is also present in the embodiment which has just been described. This, of course, is due to the seams 43 and those which unite the insertion 35 with the main part of the'breast portion.

In order to prevent the tucks 40 from causing the wearer discomfort, it is preferred that they be covered by the narrow ribbon or piece of soft material 45 which may bereadily removed whenever it is desired to effect the adjustment just described. When several tucks or pleats have been let out, the piece 45 may be discarded as super-- portion upon itself along an extension (H-L) of by providing tucks 40 in. the main portion of the breast supports instead of in a separately formed insertion as suggested in Figure 13, and it is understood that various other modifications may be made in the embodiments illustrated and described without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the following claims.

It will be also readily apparent that the improved methods of designing and cutting the blanks described herein, may be applied to the preparation of a pattern, and the material from which the garments themselves are to be made may be cut in any convenient quantity simultaneously by the application of such pattern or template.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of manufacturing a brassiere or the like, which comprises essentially: cutting out a pair of L-shaped pieces of fabric, connecting the inner edge of the shorter arm to a portion of the inner edge of the longer arm, cutting the remaining portion of said edge of the longer arm to provide a taper thereon, cutting off portions of the outer edges of both of said arms near the ends thereof, and uniting said pieces at'the angular portions thereof.

2. The method of manufacturing a breast supporting portion of a brassire or the ,like, which comprises providing an oblong blank of cloth, folding said blank so that one of the short sides coincides with a portion of one of thelong sides, thus dividing said blank into two superposed triangular portions and arectangular portion, cutting away substantially half of said rectangular portion along a line bisecting the opposite short side of the blank, folding said doubled triangular said bisecting line, erecting a perpendicular line at the mid-point of the diagonal line (EL) formed by the folded part of the cloth, extending said perpendicular line a predetermined distance to point 0, selecting a point Q on a line extending from the comer L formed by the last mentioned folding, a predetermined distance from the point 0, cutting away a tapered portion of the remaining half rectangular portion along the line MH, severing the double folded portion of cloth along said extension line H-L, cutting away the outer acutdangle of the original fold along line J-K, cutting both superposed portions along a line connecting the points K and Q, cutting one of said superposed portions along a substantially parabolic curve from point Q to the point H, cutting the other portion along a gradual curve from'point Q to a'point adjacent the point M, and finally connecting the adjacent edges of the superposed portions indicated by the line H--L.

3. A brassire including a pair of breast supports each formed from a blank having a substantially rightangled cut-out portion of which the edges are joined to the edges of an inserted gusset by means of seams, the supports being joined together at substantially the center of the brassiere with said seams extending from substantially the center of each of said breast supports in a direction away from the junction of the two supports.

4. In a brassiere, a pair of breast supports, each formed of a substantially L-shaped piece of cloth, portions of the inner edges of the long and short arms being secured together, and each piece being connected directly to the other at the angle portions thereof.

5. In a brassire, a pair of breast supports, each formed of a substantially L-shaped piece of cloth, the end of the long arm thereof being tapered, portions of the inner edges of the long and short arms being secured together, and each piece being connected directly to the other at the angle pertions thereof.

6. In a brassire, a pair of breast supports, each formed of a substantially L-shaped piece of cloth, the ends of the long arm thereof being tapered, the outer edge of the short arm being curved and the outer corner of the angleportion thereof being cut away, each piece connected directly to the other at the blunted-corner thus formed, and portions of the inner edges of 'said long and short arms being secured together.

7. In a brassiere, ,a pair of breast supports connected together at a point adjacent the center of the garment and each comprising an area of cloth having a segment cut out of the upper outer portion thereof, and seams uniting the edges formed Cir by cutting away said segments, each of said seams 

